Thank you so much for all the work you put into the video. I really enjoyed the video and I was thinking of a way our robotics team could use this. When you made the hub part of your model is it a circle or a hexagon. And if it is a circle how were you able to sketch on the circle so that you could add the fingers. Great job 👏
Listening to you chew up English is an honor and a pleasure cousin. Don't feel bad, your English is better than most native speakers. God knows I chew it up myself. That pump is fucking cool, keep up the good work.
Next time put water resistant grease in the pump housing before the first start. This will minimize friction and improve sealing. Many mass-produced flexible vane pumps do this from the factory.
White teflon Pipe tape, and print a tpu gasket, for the acrylic front plate, might have been the better way to go... but love the effort and ingenuity ..
When using NPT fittings I have had good success with printing the part with a smooth tapered hole (no thread), then warming the metal fitting just enough to screw it in (don't want to soften too much of the plastic). Then, once everything has cooled down, just tighten the fitting up a little further.
I love flexible filaments. I find myself making even "rigid" parts with flexibles because they are virtually unbreakable. They tend to hold items better as well, such as tool holders. Bed adhesion seems to be better and can run on a cooler bed and I usually don't use part cooling, really for anything, but it's not needed for TPU. All of this lends to a quieter environment with less ambient heat - It's winter time now and I wouldn't mind some of those machines churning out some heat, but in the summer this is a measurable cost savings especially if you are using a large machine to prototype small parts.
Today I learned PCBWay does more than PCBs, good to know. Looks like you were losing some water on the bearing at the back, maybe use a water pump bushing? And on the lid, maybe add a recess and a PTFE washer to hold the end? Neat design!
Very cool! That’s the most common kind of pump you’ll find in the seawater cooling loops on marine engines and generators. Usually the impellers are made of either neoprene or nitrile.
Free .stl files will be added in early next week!! If u are interested to download these, please revisit this video description next week. Sorry for the delay!
I like the way this guy talks. Clearly English is not his first language but he still gets the point across effectively. Would love to see a bloopers video of him missing up a bunch of words.
Hi nice job.. few tips; The pump is called a "Flexible Vane Pump". The chamber should be round and the impeller shaft ofset from centre. 3D prints are porus, more then likely why you are getting air in the pump chamber, try spraying the internals with a few coats of enamel paint to seal the chamber and inlets. cheers.
A suggestion RTV gasket maker. You won't need high temp for a plastic water pump but it should stop the leaks for future could even add it to the threads for the nozzles
Use some Teflon tape on your threaded fittings, use rtv silicone to seal the clear lid, and get some mercury 2-4-c marine grease for the oring, impeller and bearing. It will prime much better without any air getting in and it will most likely stop leaking. Cool build!! The impeller looks identical to an outboard, same idea. Bravo 👏
that is super impressive! In addition to all the other good suggested improvements by others, it looks like the part after the inlet, where the bump/flat part is, transitions too quickly to the normal circular diameter, and at full speed, the ends of the arms dont flick out fast enough, and there isnt a seal maintained. making this a more gentle transition should fix this issue and potentially improve performance at high rpms. a tip for sealing the front is you can print in an oring grove in the housing, and then get a large oring, or oring stock and then trim to fit and use super glue to repair the oring.
I'm using these pumps daily by 10-15 years and exists way before I even knew about them. Good job ecplaining however for the ones that don't know about these type of pumps.
That "double sided o-ring" is called a grommet. It's not actually an o-ring. They are not designed to seal around rotating shafts. Yes they'll work okay for a limited amount of time.
Not checked if anyone else has said this already, but ... 1. Use PTFE plumber's tape to seal your nozzles. Done properly it's gas tight so water is no problem 2. Large silicone "O" rings of almost any size needed are easily available. online. Modify your design to have a channel just large enough for such an "O" ring on the INSIDE of the screw radii, but close to that radius. Then when you fit your bolts it will tighten down on the cover. If you are using self tapping screws it would probably be better using machine screws and captive nuts. Great idea, and keep persevering since self priming pumps are invaluable for ponds rather than a submersible pump. 👍👍👍
Thats fantastic! I also designed a 3D printable Flexible impeller pump however I like some of the things you did with the housing like the double sided o-ring! Keep up the good content.
I’d suggest printing a recess to place your calk in, figuring out how to smooth out the inner casing, Teflon taping or caulking the threads, and potentially printing at a slightly higher temp if you can to pack a little more material together in case the threads are cracking and that’s why you’re getting some leak
two words o-ring grooves. put an o-ring groove just inside the diameter of the front cover screws. you can also leave a chamfer at the edges of the threads for the fittings that you can tighten the fittings down against. Nice design!
A recommendation for efficiency: 1. A quick exposure to an acetone atmosphere should massively improve the performance, by reducing international friction. 2. Teflon tape in the fittings, and silicon around the clear plate. At the moment, pressure can't build up in your pump because there's a 2nd pathway (through the window). You probably already know this, but hey ho, that's my 2 pennies.
Pretty cool design. I haven't read all the comments so this may have already been mentioned. I think your design would work better (leaks aside) if you make the transition at the intake side of the pump a more gradual curve instead of the sharp bend. It looks like the pump is cavitating in that section which I believe is leading to a loss of suction. Thank you for the video
The impossible quest of getting something from nothing by ignoring what you are insisting. You have to use energy to BEND the blade before it can flick. Impressive IS the modular planetary gear system. WONDERFUL 3d printing has changed practical experimentation forever.
Have you tried the peristaltic pump design? It has much less room for leaking and has very high control over the water. It is highly efficient as well.
Peristaltic pumps are great, but don't have a very high pumping speed. Both use similar concepts of flexible materials to creat the variable sized "chamber".
this reminds me of the pump I used to brine hams when I worked in a butcher shop. it was a brass disc set off center in the housing with thick rubber vanes that slid out with centrifugal force.
You could use PTFE tape on the inlet and outlet to improve water tightness and so improve priming for the inlet and avoid flooding your room for the outlet
This is actually more common then you might think, most if not all outboard motors use this exact style of flexible impeller to pump water through the engine block. I suppose it's flexible because it's connected directly to the drive shaft that's spinning at over 7k rpm on max throttle, so it would get worn out pretty quickly if it was a solid impeller
Looks just like the water pump impeller for my dad's old Volvo boat motor. The rubber it was made from would crack all the time. It needed to be serviced a lot.
Very similar to the westerbeke generator water pumps. Works fairly well, you definitely *need* to have them with water to keep them from wearing out. Fun to be able to see it in operation though, impressed the 3d print is holding water that well.
Tpu is absolutely perfect materiqal for this application, tpu is flexible but not so flexible as another flexible things, no no no this sentence is not working. Hahaha you got my follow just because of that sentence! Thank you for not editing it out! Hqhahaha love it thank you
foreign bro I am also a Korean who is very interested in 3D printed water pumps. 3D water pumps are not sealed and therefore do not create pressure. If you want a little more pressure, apply a thin layer of waterproof silicone to the inside and outside with a brush. Of course, a gasket must be used on the pump cover as standard.
you could try an old vacuum pump design. use an inverted impeller, then put springed graphite brushes into the slots, which will create a perfect seal, and make nearly no friction.
I would suggest building the body from stiffer highspeed tpu? Tpu is the easiest filament to make water tight. You could also add some Teflon tape to you metal barbs. Pretty interesting
Hey love the video! A quick tip for those brass fittings you use for the hose is buy some tephlone tape! It's about 98 cents a role usd and you can find it at any hardware store! It will make it so that the piece won't leak and should make it a lot more serviceable then melting it on haha. Very interesting video keep up the work!
Love it! I think a lot of friction between the impeller and the housing - what about coating it in graphite? You could crush a bunch of pencil lead and adhere it to the surface.
Use Teflon tape to stop the nozzles from leaking. Just make sure you wrap it going against the thread so it doesn't come undone when you go to screw the nozzle into the print.
I know it's already been beat to death but ceiling with Teflon on the threads some silicone on the glass and some grease on the o-ring will help substantially
Seems like switching from PLA to PETG would solve several problems, but a printed gasket from TPU and probably a UCUP for the rotating seal would tighten up the other areas.
Make the pump body slightly larger so you can move the face screws out slightly. You can place a recess for an o-ring or TPU printed gasket and then you don't have to worry about sealing the screw holes on the face. Also, PTFE paste for the hose connections
What if you angled the impeller blades, bringing the water in on 1 side and exciting out the backside would that give extra centrifugal force. Any ideas about this comment?
Try Teflon tape on the inlet and outlet threads. It should help a lot. And make sure you apply it the opposite way than you'll thread it in. Good work and idead.
This kind of pumps is used for years for pumping sea water on marine engines. The design is the same, except the housing is full round and non centerred shaft.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Pump files NOW AVAILABLE!!! thangs.com/Lets-Print/Flexible-Impeller-Water-Pump-32286?
Thank you so much for all the work you put into the video. I really enjoyed the video and I was thinking of a way our robotics team could use this. When you made the hub part of your model is it a circle or a hexagon. And if it is a circle how were you able to sketch on the circle so that you could add the fingers. Great job 👏
Listening to you chew up English is an honor and a pleasure cousin. Don't feel bad, your English is better than most native speakers. God knows I chew it up myself. That pump is fucking cool, keep up the good work.
Push the shaft through the what? The baby?
**=** Look at this video: ruclips.net/video/MjUVWaCjo98/видео.html
If interested about type of pump shape, if that work very well, idk 😉
Next time put water resistant grease in the pump housing before the first start. This will minimize friction and improve sealing. Many mass-produced flexible vane pumps do this from the factory.
Isn't all grease water resistant?
@@dragosserbanescu8267 ever heard of emulsions?
use dawn dish soap. It's what we use in the marine industry, as this is just a water pump out of an outboard engine
@@brad1367 Mayonnaise is the classic example of what you get when water and grease are emulsified.
White teflon Pipe tape, and print a tpu gasket, for the acrylic front plate, might have been the better way to go... but love the effort and ingenuity ..
came to type same, and maybe the outlet could be a 90 deg elbow instead up straight up - the head pressure was inhibiting the outflow
Came here to say the same too
Was ganna say the same.
PTFE tape (Polytetrafluoroethylene)
I was thinking silicone for the seal but ya he has the printer so tpu makes sense
When using NPT fittings I have had good success with printing the part with a smooth tapered hole (no thread), then warming the metal fitting just enough to screw it in (don't want to soften too much of the plastic). Then, once everything has cooled down, just tighten the fitting up a little further.
I love flexible filaments. I find myself making even "rigid" parts with flexibles because they are virtually unbreakable.
They tend to hold items better as well, such as tool holders.
Bed adhesion seems to be better and can run on a cooler bed and I usually don't use part cooling, really for anything, but it's not needed for TPU.
All of this lends to a quieter environment with less ambient heat - It's winter time now and I wouldn't mind some of those machines churning out some heat, but in the summer this is a measurable cost savings especially if you are using a large machine to prototype small parts.
Great work. You're like the Integza of water pumps.
Still waiting for the day when you make a pump that doesn't leak lol
man need to start using gaskets and seals
@@SaajaadeenJeffries or print it with that rubber printing...
Today I learned PCBWay does more than PCBs, good to know. Looks like you were losing some water on the bearing at the back, maybe use a water pump bushing? And on the lid, maybe add a recess and a PTFE washer to hold the end? Neat design!
I feel like leaking pumps are a thing here :)
This style of pump has been used in the boating industry for over 100years its reliable and simple
Just about all outboard engines use these for the water pump to cool the engine.
Inboard engines, too, for the raw water pump... Nothing "surprising" about it really.
Very cool! That’s the most common kind of pump you’ll find in the seawater cooling loops on marine engines and generators. Usually the impellers are made of either neoprene or nitrile.
Free .stl files will be added in early next week!! If u are interested to download these, please revisit this video description next week. Sorry for the delay!
What about step or original files
@RASEL we're trying to science here
I like the way this guy talks. Clearly English is not his first language but he still gets the point across effectively. Would love to see a bloopers video of him missing up a bunch of words.
Print a TPU gasket for the window seal, and try automotve RTV on the hose barb threads for a sealant.
Hi nice job.. few tips;
The pump is called a "Flexible Vane Pump".
The chamber should be round and the impeller shaft ofset from centre.
3D prints are porus, more then likely why you are getting air in the pump chamber, try spraying the internals with a few coats of enamel paint to seal the chamber and inlets.
cheers.
A suggestion RTV gasket maker. You won't need high temp for a plastic water pump but it should stop the leaks for future could even add it to the threads for the nozzles
Use some Teflon tape on your threaded fittings, use rtv silicone to seal the clear lid, and get some mercury 2-4-c marine grease for the oring, impeller and bearing. It will prime much better without any air getting in and it will most likely stop leaking. Cool build!! The impeller looks identical to an outboard, same idea. Bravo 👏
that is super impressive! In addition to all the other good suggested improvements by others, it looks like the part after the inlet, where the bump/flat part is, transitions too quickly to the normal circular diameter, and at full speed, the ends of the arms dont flick out fast enough, and there isnt a seal maintained. making this a more gentle transition should fix this issue and potentially improve performance at high rpms.
a tip for sealing the front is you can print in an oring grove in the housing, and then get a large oring, or oring stock and then trim to fit and use super glue to repair the oring.
I'm using these pumps daily by 10-15 years and exists way before I even knew about them. Good job ecplaining however for the ones that don't know about these type of pumps.
That "double sided o-ring" is called a grommet. It's not actually an o-ring. They are not designed to seal around rotating shafts. Yes they'll work okay for a limited amount of time.
Nice PUMP bro XD. No kidding an actual good design
3:05 i love how serious this video was till this part haha
Not checked if anyone else has said this already, but ...
1. Use PTFE plumber's tape to seal your nozzles. Done properly it's gas tight so water is no problem
2. Large silicone "O" rings of almost any size needed are easily available. online. Modify your design to have a channel just large enough for such an "O" ring on the INSIDE of the screw radii, but close to that radius. Then when you fit your bolts it will tighten down on the cover. If you are using self tapping screws it would probably be better using machine screws and captive nuts.
Great idea, and keep persevering since self priming pumps are invaluable for ponds rather than a submersible pump. 👍👍👍
Outboard motors have used those water pump impellers FOREVER!
That's a pretty cool water bump you got there
Thats fantastic! I also designed a 3D printable Flexible impeller pump however I like some of the things you did with the housing like the double sided o-ring! Keep up the good content.
Pretty cool water bump
Let's Print is back in the game. Well done great video.
I’d suggest printing a recess to place your calk in, figuring out how to smooth out the inner casing, Teflon taping or caulking the threads, and potentially printing at a slightly higher temp if you can to pack a little more material together in case the threads are cracking and that’s why you’re getting some leak
I love these videos, it really shows how these impellers 'squeeze' the water out. Excellent work bud 👍
two words o-ring grooves. put an o-ring groove just inside the diameter of the front cover screws. you can also leave a chamfer at the edges of the threads for the fittings that you can tighten the fittings down against. Nice design!
Maybe you can use graphite infused filament for decreased friction
Close step to making mechanic hearts
Really liking your channel, and I don’t care if you don’t speak perfectly, it’s good enough!
This is exactly what outboard boat motors use for a .water pump.
Making the outlet longer so the water can flow out earlier might help to
Water needs a place to go before it gets compressed
That style of impeller has been used in outboard boat engines for a really long time.
And small inboard engines, like those in sailboats.
Am I the only one that was mesmerized by the water and Impeller at 10:20
Nice pump!
Neat little peristaltic pump concept
Better idea of flexible impeller is really amusing, only the question how far its ability of flexibility retain .👌👍
A recommendation for efficiency:
1. A quick exposure to an acetone atmosphere should massively improve the performance, by reducing international friction.
2. Teflon tape in the fittings, and silicon around the clear plate.
At the moment, pressure can't build up in your pump because there's a 2nd pathway (through the window).
You probably already know this, but hey ho, that's my 2 pennies.
I recommend softset pipe sealant. Its fluid nature will allow it to fill in any gaps and seal those leaky threads.
Pretty cool design. I haven't read all the comments so this may have already been mentioned. I think your design would work better (leaks aside) if you make the transition at the intake side of the pump a more gradual curve instead of the sharp bend. It looks like the pump is cavitating in that section which I believe is leading to a loss of suction. Thank you for the video
You can buy these impellers already in the wild, boat motors use this type of pump to cool the cylinders with the lake water
The impossible quest of getting something from nothing by ignoring what you are insisting. You have to use energy to BEND the blade before it can flick. Impressive IS the modular planetary gear system. WONDERFUL 3d printing has changed practical experimentation forever.
You could get 2 inlets and outlets, maybe 3 if clever, would increase flow
Cool project!
Jabsco and Sherwood makes pumps like these. They use them on carpet cleaning trucks to skim off bulk water from the return water tanks.
I have jabsco and sherwood raw water pumps on my boats.. they work flawlessly
Excellent
Have you tried the peristaltic pump design? It has much less room for leaking and has very high control over the water. It is highly efficient as well.
Peristaltic pumps are great, but don't have a very high pumping speed. Both use similar concepts of flexible materials to creat the variable sized "chamber".
this reminds me of the pump I used to brine hams when I worked in a butcher shop. it was a brass disc set off center in the housing with thick rubber vanes that slid out with centrifugal force.
Thank you! "Nonono, this sentence not working" -- I can relate! :)
Nice bump.
You could use PTFE tape on the inlet and outlet to improve water tightness and so improve priming for the inlet and avoid flooding your room for the outlet
This is actually more common then you might think, most if not all outboard motors use this exact style of flexible impeller to pump water through the engine block. I suppose it's flexible because it's connected directly to the drive shaft that's spinning at over 7k rpm on max throttle, so it would get worn out pretty quickly if it was a solid impeller
"How to increase microplastics amount in your water supply" :D trolling aside, nice pump.
This is the same principle as a vane compressor- interesting how you executed it in this manner with a flexing impeller
Exactly the same as the cooling pumps in outboard motors. As the speed increases the pump vanes will lay back and it goes to centrifugal mode.
Awesome video, you should try making a trash pump style! They generally produce a huge amount of volume
Looks just like the water pump impeller for my dad's old Volvo boat motor. The rubber it was made from would crack all the time. It needed to be serviced a lot.
That's great, but scroll pumps are the ultimate achievement man, they have sliding contact but nothing flexing, it's genius.
Very similar to the westerbeke generator water pumps. Works fairly well, you definitely *need* to have them with water to keep them from wearing out. Fun to be able to see it in operation though, impressed the 3d print is holding water that well.
Tpu is absolutely perfect materiqal for this application, tpu is flexible but not so flexible as another flexible things, no no no this sentence is not working. Hahaha you got my follow just because of that sentence! Thank you for not editing it out! Hqhahaha love it thank you
foreign bro
I am also a Korean who is very interested in 3D printed water pumps.
3D water pumps are not sealed and therefore do not create pressure.
If you want a little more pressure, apply a thin layer of waterproof silicone to the inside and outside with a brush. Of course, a gasket must be used on the pump cover as standard.
you could try an old vacuum pump design. use an inverted impeller, then put springed graphite brushes into the slots, which will create a perfect seal, and make nearly no friction.
Just a regular vaned pump, in other words.
I would suggest building the body from stiffer highspeed tpu? Tpu is the easiest filament to make water tight. You could also add some Teflon tape to you metal barbs. Pretty interesting
Hey love the video! A quick tip for those brass fittings you use for the hose is buy some tephlone tape! It's about 98 cents a role usd and you can find it at any hardware store! It will make it so that the piece won't leak and should make it a lot more serviceable then melting it on haha. Very interesting video keep up the work!
It took me a bit, you probably mean Teflon tape
Very interesting design. Really cool
Very common actually. Outboard boat motor water pumps are made this way.
Rubber rather than 3d print though.
Love it! I think a lot of friction between the impeller and the housing - what about coating it in graphite? You could crush a bunch of pencil lead and adhere it to the surface.
@RASEL.. 💋 spam bot
@@RayRayGaming-cr3rw keep reporting the spam and maybe youtube will fix it
@@adamdnewman it worked, they're gone!
you can also add gaskets before the acrylic cover so the water wont leak
Nice work man! love ur video keep up the good work!!!
This was a great video! Very interesting. I like this pump, it's very cool how it works.
Very cool, just a tip: make a slot for a gasket where the window is. Overall though, really nice! 👍
I like when he says "PEPE" instead of bearing
nice pump
Excellent design👍👍👍
I has an old 2 cycle scott Atwater outbord that had a similar pump.cool man great work!!😀
man recreates a waterpump found on every outboard boat engine from the 30's to now
Really nice design.
Very good👍 pump
Use Teflon tape to stop the nozzles from leaking. Just make sure you wrap it going against the thread so it doesn't come undone when you go to screw the nozzle into the print.
I know it's already been beat to death but ceiling with Teflon on the threads some silicone on the glass and some grease on the o-ring will help substantially
That's just like the impeller on an outboard motor.
Yep. Boat motor water pump impellers work great.
You can 3d print the nozzles in the pump itself instead of using separated metal. I've done it and it is both strong and leakless. Try it :)
Not that weird, there's one like it in just about every boat motor.
i dont know why but i love the way it volently shakes when at speed lmao
Seems like switching from PLA to PETG would solve several problems, but a printed gasket from TPU and probably a UCUP for the rotating seal would tighten up the other areas.
Would love to see numbers for head and flow rate, so we can make a comparison between your early and then the improved pump!
Make the pump body slightly larger so you can move the face screws out slightly. You can place a recess for an o-ring or TPU printed gasket and then you don't have to worry about sealing the screw holes on the face. Also, PTFE paste for the hose connections
I love this accent and video
You're printing in TPU but it doesnt occur to you to make custom gaskets for your pump?
input shaft needs two bearings
What if you angled the impeller blades, bringing the water in on 1 side and exciting out the backside would that give extra centrifugal force. Any ideas about this comment?
Try Teflon tape on the inlet and outlet threads. It should help a lot. And make sure you apply it the opposite way than you'll thread it in. Good work and idead.
It’s a very common type of pump.
Not weird at all.
Love your videos
This kind of pumps is used for years for pumping sea water on marine engines. The design is the same, except the housing is full round and non centerred shaft.